Adventure 538: Bay of Fundy/Hopewell House/Post L

Eddy with two Ds: Master Planner

Sad we were to leave PEI behind, but ever forward as far as our imaginations can take us. We'll be two nights in the Hopewell House. In the Bay of Fundy tomorrow, we'll witness the low tide of 3.5 meters (11 ft.) and the high of 16 meters (53 ft.) as it increases steadily to the head of the bay at Minus Basin. A natural wonder for sure, it's no less surprising than the kindness and gentleness of these Maritime peoples. We've encountered nothing but people exhibiting gracious behavior, an example our often harsh American comrades would do well to emulate. They find our politics amusing. One man we met even suggested we may become expatriates after the next election. But enough of such talk. Let's talk of imagination. Thanks to the wandering spirit of my buddy, Edd (With two Ds), we've been witness to a grand adventure. He (As is his wont) planned the whole thing. He is, as he says, "A big picture guy". It's for the rest of us to fill in the "wild cards" as we may. This is our last stop in the Maritimes, and a pleasant place it is. It's called  The Hopewell House, a sufficiently restored, four bedroom structure set just back from Highway 19. It's pleasing venue, especially considering we're still enthralled with episodes of Anne with an E. I don't mind saying, my eyes fill with tender tears at the language, the characters, the scenery, and the genteel spirit of the series. I find myself comparing the fiction to the reality of the people we've met, the sights we've seen, and the history we've learned. We could gather much from these Northern folk. We'll be back soon enough among too many of our sad and crassly, cruel countrymen. In the meantime, we'll relish a life in the Maritime Provinces that is good, especially today.

 Our wildcard stop today before leaving PEI was the "posh" little village of Victoria by the Sea. Highlight: Island Chocolates. (Handmade during the season; in partnership with Ecuadorians during the off season. Hear, hear for partners in humanity).

 Just a dollar a piece for these Belgian chocolates.

These Islanders do enjoy their puns. More than that, the matron of this store not only weaves exquisite murals, but she includes the actual fur of her Newfoundland dogs in each piece.

 The Hopewell House, our abode for the next two nights.

 My Bunny, an early riser, upon witnessing this morning coffee room.

 The view from the coffee room.

 Best

 Friends

 Loving on each other. (Hear, hear for partners in humanity).

 Another tear filled episode of Anne with an E.

 This, the "Backseat" book, is Deb's travel bible.

 Our Maritime itinerary in two pages.

 A mere smattering. The "Backseat" is filled with context, daily suggestions, the accounting page, and much more. 

I might be able to book Edd with two Ds as your travel guide.

He'll work for good coffee.

Adventure 537: Tour of Prince Edward Island/Post K

A couple of Would Be Annes

No trip to PEI would be complete without at least a drive by of the many shrines and amusements surrounding the famous fiction, Anne of Green Gables. That's Anne with an E who famously said, "My life is a perfect graveyard of buried hopes." We were a little more hopeful today as we spent several hours after breakfast just driving on the backroads. We cruised along one of the coastal provincial parks; we frolicked through the dens and dells, gazing with appreciation at the neat and tidy homes, the farms, the seaside rental cottages, a few stately homes, a few old light houses, and at least two golf courses where the hearty souls were attempting to master the thirty knot winds. "Keep it low, fellas", I yelled, as I imagined a stray sphere ricocheting off our wind shield. The most fun we had, other than our Anne of Green Gables stop, was circumnavigating several coastal loops. Each loop took us off Route 6 down and around the coastline and back again to Route 6. We looped South Rustica; we looped Rustica Harbor; we loop Rusticaville; and we would have looped North Rustica if the road hadn't been closed to through traffic. All the while, we were tucked warmly into our American rental car because not only was it quite windy, it was also quite cold (Below 60 degrees). We're wimpy Americans, not hearty Canadians, you know, Eh! We arrived back at our cottage by the sea, snuggled in for an afternoon of Netflix. First, we watched a movie about the legendary Robert the Bruce called the Outlaw King. While quite bloody and violently realistic, all of us mentioned the music. In several scenes, groups of Scots were singing. The women sang when they salted the fish; they sang when the men left for battle; they sang to comfort the children. The men also sang. They sang as they marched; they sang as they built battlements; they sang in a great joyous chorus after their victory. Since we now have a little context born of our experience with the Ceilidh, these musical interludes, which softened the movie considerably, left an impression on us. And of course, we followed that movie with a couple of episodes of Anne with an E. For dinner, Judy and I made our favorite Jacque Pepin soup recipe, made from the fresh vegetables we bought at the Farmer's Market yesterday. A sunset dinner seemed the perfect way to spend our last night on Prince Edward Island. Tomorrow, it's back to New Brunswick and the Bay of Fundy  In the meantime, life remains good, especially today.

 We look a little like a Scottish potato farmers, don't you think? 

 No life guard on duty. Swim at you own risk.

 The pounding sea obviously batters the land.

 This strong man was riding across the full brunt of the wind.

The entire island's soil is so iron laden, it's literally red.

This is St. Augustine's, the oldest Catholic church on the island.

 Simple vegetable soup served with gruyere cheese and thick slices of toasted potato bread.

Good night to you, Dear Sol. We'll bury our hope in the faith that you'll rise again tomorrow.

Adventure 536: Stratford-Charlottetown, PEI/Post J

Charlottetown, capital of PEI

We did the tourist thing today. A short drive to the farmer's market produced a bag full of local products: bread, cheese, vegetables, four fat bratwurst sausages, and a large gingerbread cookie for walk about munchies. We then drove to the town center where we went our separate ways for a few hours to explore the city. We must be like identical twins, though, because just as Judy and I were finishing our lunch at a restaurant called the Terre Rouge, in walks Deb and Ed. After lunch, which was delicious, we continued walking to wear off a few calories. On the way back to the cottage, I pulled a "wildcard" and took us to a local event called "Stratford Days". It was mostly place for families, but the locals welcomed us with open arms. There were vendors selling apples,  fresh corn, wooden cutting boards, cotton candy, and other assorted treats. The event, held along a local nature walk, was sprinkled with displays designed to educate. We listened to a  falconer talk about his birds and their hunting habits. There was a table explaining sustainable forest practices. There were artists all along the path, everything from musical bands to drummers to dancers. We threw axes. In all, we felt a part of the local culture. The only thing missing was our toddlers. Tonight, we're going to barbecue our sausages and corn, sip a little wine, and enjoy a campfire on the beach. Quite simple, quite nice, and quite a good showing of the good life, eh?

 We met a few people today. Lauchlan McClure, a local islander, pointed us in good directions.

 The cathedral, centerpiece of the diocese, dominates the downtown landscape.

 How do you like my prom date?

 Ed brought his favorite girl, too!

 We threw axes.

 Deb got back to her Scottish roots.

 Whack!

 Notice the excellent highland form.

 Most interesting was this discussion of this predatory Kestrel. This bird sees eight times better than humans and can process movement at 80 frames per second. It hunts mainly by soaring to three thousand feet, sighting a prey (flying birds, rodents, even animals as big as foxes). Once a prey is sighted, the Peregrine falcon tucks its wings,  drops like torpedo and scrapes the prey with its talons. It's not pretty, but then predators never are.

 This bird, a male, makes its home in the wild in the far Northern ice fields. It's perfectly content to sit in the freezing cold all day waiting for some sign of movement.

 This little gal, a Kestrel,  has been with the couple since birth. 

 These two go all over the provinces displaying their bids.

Opened in 1907, St. Dustan's Basilica Cathedral, boasts 200' spires, and is named for the Anglo-Saxon saint who hails from Glastonbury, Scotland.

 Art shot of the day: A cup of Joe.

 What else for lunch but another lobster roll.

Adventure 535: Stratford, Prince Edward Island (PEI)/Post I

Judy keeps track of the accounts in the "Backseat" book.

Every trip has travel days that connect one adventure to the next. Today was one of those travel days. We came full circle off of Cape Breton Island when we took the second exit onto the causeway merging with the Trans Canada Highway. One hundred and sixty-five driving miles later plus a seventy-five minute ferry ride, we find ourselves in a quite pleasant bungalow on Prince Edward Island looking across the water at Charlottetown. One of my favorite aspects of traveling with the Drouin's is that Ed plans the entire trip. I simply say, "What address should I put into Susie (GPS) today?" For a control freak like me, it's very liberating to relinquish all decision making. On today's journey, we left Baddeck in the pouring rain. Very shortly, the clouds parted, illuminating the lustrous coast line of Cape Breton. We had convinced ourselves after reading reviews that our first stop, a restaurant called Charlene's nestled along the bay in the first nation community of Whycocomagh, was the BOMB. Charlene's Restaurant is famous in the Maritimes for both her hospitality and her seafood chowder, which she serves as "First Breakfast" along with any number of fish cakes you'd care to order. We were like kids at Christmas dreaming for a favorite toy. In no way were we disappointed. Just as we were seated, a young first nation father came in with his mother, his wife, and his young three month old son. Every woman in the place (I think about half the village works at the cafe.) came out to fawn over this child, his father, his mother, and his wife. "Ooh, look at all the hair!" "You're too young to have a son." "Let me hold him." The warmth spread like butter over the fresh tea biscuits served with every meal. Completely satiated, body and soul, we arrived in the small coastal town of Pictou a couple hours later, just a little bit ahead of our scheduled time to board the ferry. We walked around town a bit, bought a package of Mrs. McCarther's Scottish shortbreads, which I'm sure is just a pound of butter mashed into a dash of flour. At any rate, they performed well as dessert after dinner along with a little "titch' of Grand Marnier. The ferry ride to PEI went quickly despite the rough water and the strong wind. I've never been on a a ferry that rolled in waves before.  The Captain even made a little small talk to distract us. Fortunately, we survived the crossing. Thirty miles later, we arrived in Stratford. Of course, we had to make our mad dash around the local super market to stock up on supplies. Having completed that housekeeping task, we occupied the place, chose our rooms, changed into our "jammies", opened a bottle of wine, fixed dinner, and really just enjoyed our good fortune for the rest of the evening. We're here for three nights, a time frame that will allow us to explore a bit of Prince Edward Island. In many ways I'm sad to leave the Scot/French culture of Cape Breton Island. On the other hand, I'm eager to experience new worlds. I've always believed that we're all more alike than we are different, and if we can live with open hearts and fair minds, I remain convinced that life is good, especially today.

 If you are ever in the Maritime Provinces, this restaurant is a MUST stop.

This chowder, mostly seafood, bathed in a delicate broth, and served with fish cakes made of mashed potatoes stuffed with Haddock.

The first Scottish immigrants, led by a powerful man named Norman MacCleod traveled from Scotland as a result of the Highland Clearances in which the English confiscated their land. They made landfall in Pictou, Nova Scotia. The Maritime Provinces owe their culture and much of their history to these hearty folk. 

A small fleet of fishing boats lay protected beside the ferry dock, the season over for the most part. The boats will be removed from the water before the harsh winter sets in.

 Thankfully, we didn't need this vessel today.

The winds were well above twenty-five knots; the seas about four feet. Ferries cross the channel five times a day, sometimes seven in peak months.

Judy pulled a "wild card" and we turned around into this self-serve farmer's market. Unfortunately, the volumes they offered for sale were too much for our time here. We have little use for ten pounds of potatoes, or five pounds of beets.

 Our bungalow in Stratford by the bay.

 The view from the porch. It promises to be a pleasant few days.